T400 PUFF SHIRT
This is the 4th pattern I have sewn from this pattern company and they are good. Drafting of the patterns is professional and accurate.
Styling is simple and they are an easy intermediate sew. The instructions and illustrations are mostly clear.
The fits are very similar to ready to wear. I have read that some people size down on the cuff top and puff sleeve shirt, but be aware if you do this, to check the hem width against your hip measurement, as it may be too tight here if you do this. I found it roomy enough through the shoulders and it is a relaxed fit, but nice through the body.
The main thing I find irritating with these patterns, is the seam allowance line is also printed on the pattern. This in some areas makes for lots of lines, which in turn can make it tricky, working out which to follow. I had to draw on my size with a coloured pencil so I didn’t cut along the wrong line.
Sizes (there are not many of these )but not unusual from a European pattern line. Really frustrating if your bigger than a NZ 16, US 14 or UK18! Its a shame, as these are really wearable styles and would suit many body shapes. If your paying $30 NZ for a printed pattern, you don’t want to grade up yourself!
I used an Atelier Brunette printed dobby viscose. This is the most stunning fabric to sew with. It is beautiful in blouses that are gathered or pleated. I do hope AB offers new prints in this same quality. Check it out https://atelierbrunette.com/en/fabrics/345-posie-blue-viscose-dobby-fabric.html.
I under stitched the neck facings and was tempted to stitch the facing edge down as well. I’m pleased I decided against this, as its not needed. The neckline is curved and seems to say put, it would spoil the clean appearance and would distract also, from the lovely envelope neck opening.
As this is my second style with elasticated cuffs from Assembly line, I do find the method used for attaching the elasticated sleeve bands tedious and difficult!
After a couple of frustrating attempts at attaching the narrow folded cuff band with the elastic already inside, to a very gathered sleeve hem on the round, I unpicked it off and removed the elastic. I had to re attach the fiddly little band, back to the gathered sleeve hem – minus the elastic. Wasting at least 2 hours of precious sewing time.
I left a small opening in the seam on the inside part of the cuff and, re-threaded the elastic with a safety pin. I then sewed the elastic ends together with a zig zag stitch and eased it all back inside the band. I hand sewed the opening back up. Voile, a lot less stressful !
following a pattern 